Here I go, Kate Bush announces as a tan coloured military inspired coat, strictly buttoned up, opens the show and I'm head-over-heels. The hounds of love are indeed hunting. 

Apparently, Kinder Aggugini's not-quite-young boho lady of past seasons has morphed into a sharp, elegant, sexy, ageless thing, an immortal most likely - albeit one with a soft spot for flowing, long-sleeved, 1970s evening dresses.

Besides seventies gowns with black based prints and the simplest fine cocktail length dresses, the key look is military, but carefully stripped of the all obviousness of the trend already seen everywhere over the past few years, leaving only sheer beauty and sleek tailoring. All of the coats and jackets are instant winners, that much is clear.

Attention-grabbing details include subtle touches of military and Victorian gothic, double rows of buttons, contrast stitching, piping and trims on a generally dark palette, with the odd flashes of colour (orange and red) and nudes (tan and cream). The softness of the dresses, plain or with chandelier print, is accentuated by leather biker jackets and military jackets or coats, all complemented by cutout suede high ankle boots.

In contrast to his previous collections, this one is clearly stronger, simpler and much more sophisticated. The new Kinder Aggugini girl is something of a contradiction: cool and poised, while modest and relaxed, with a huge amount of inner glamour. Just what I want to be when I grow up.

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