Last season saw the glorious return of Phoebe Philo after her 2-year break, presenting what was (err, still is) arguably the best collection of spring/summer 2010. Please, please do your homework and watch it for me - or, for instant refreshment and inspiration.

For autumn/winter, Céline continues to bring comfort back, with the usual clean and crisp cuts, only this time, the utilitarian trend is reduced to mere hints, with large pockets and sleeveless knits, and a soft, snuggly feel to every outfit.

Thus far, not that very different from the style and approach of Stella M, right? But while Phoebe and Stella tend to compete for the same little place in our hearts, the former will work with leather to dream up real standout pieces we simply cannot resist.

And, you may also remember the supple leather bags Phoebe created for Chloé (for me it's the Edith, should you care). Again, the best that have ever graced our arms and shoulders, so leather it is that wins. And so does Phoebe.

The reason why this collection is not likely to be up there with the best of the season's best, is that Phoebe has gone all classic. There is a black coat for every occasion, along with black ankle grazers, skirts or dresses, which make up about half the collection, leaving little room for signature pieces or details.

Luckily, those are there as well, even if in small numbers. A shift dress here, a cocktail dress with a leather top half there, not to mention the fun and cozy wool kaftan dress that screams utter winter bliss.

And let's not forget it was Phoebe at Céline who brought back the white shirt, which is sure to remain a cool staple for seasons to come.

To prove that I'm not dismissing classic by default, I'll leave you with the lady that's sharp but incredibly relaxed - in short, best in class.

runway stills:,

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