LONDON FASHION WEEK A/W 2011: DAY ONE


Paul Costelloe

This is where the fun begins. Mr. Costello goes for colour, Irish tweed and the Boulevard Saint-HonorĂ© in the late 1960s. Good choice, as I'm LOVING the 1960s shapes in tweeds, jacquard, and strong prints and colours, paired with 1970s platforms. Now that's my kinda lady.



Caroline Charles

Inspired by Wallis Simpson and 1970s folk, the collection of earthy colours and the romantic classical soundtrack of the show conjures up images of Miss Elizabeth Bennett, even if this has nothing in common with life in the early 19th. Must be the music, a lot of hats and a fine layer of the age of innocence that resonate the same way as history repeats itself...



Irwin & Jordan

As the winner of the ELLE Talent Launchpad programme, this brand has a lot to look forward to. Having seen samples of award-winning pieces of much-applauded young designers and fresh graduates (all wallowing in arts, crafts and creativity while seriously slipping on function and comfort), it is refreshing to see a lot of simple but great clothes, lovingly cut, and with a feel of real quality to them.
 



Aminaka Wilmont

With just one signature print and a limited palette, Aminaka Wilmont brings us great basics and clever styling. The capsule collection of easy, soft and drapey tribal pieces proves there is only this much a girl needs: a bunch of dresses, a leather jacket, leather shorts, one dark and one light coloured blazer, two pairs of trousers, two pairs of shoes, one pair of leggings and a maxi skirt or two... what a girl wants is an entirely different matter.



Sass & Bide

What was colour, culture and energy to Australian designers Sara-Jane and Heidi, to me was mindless draping, bad prints, the wrong clashes and unflattering cuts. Those of you with a scientific and mazochistic interest will have to look them up elsewhere*. However, I found a handful of outfits I would be happy to own, even if just to look at, wondering why I got them.



Bora Aksu

Inspired by Edwardian mens' tailoring and the New Romantics, Bora Aksu's intricate creations will definitely get you noticed in many shades of grey, complemented by black, pearl or emerald green. Pussybow ties, corset detailing, body armour and beautiful shapes are all part of this strictly romantic collection.



PPQ

Great pieces in wool, silk, velvet in black, blue and grey. They are unique, perfectly wearable and confidence-boosting, but before I decide which look to sport... make mine a catwoman head candy, now!



Preen

Another quirky minimal collection I was not born to wear. I can't do granny. I won't do teen, or grandpa, or spinster. But I like the clashes with the signature print, the colours, some of the cuts and the cool wool half-skirts on top of more flowy pieces. And, if you look closer, Preen does offer a few numbers for the girl or the woman - pick the right one for you.



images: elleuk.com

*Posts and flash reports are my a/w 2011 lookbooks, and your guide to the season's great looks, in no way exhaustive of the collections or the show schedule.

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