MILAN FASHION WEEK A/W 2011: GUCCI, JOHN RICHMOND, ALBERTA FERRETTI


Gucci

Gone are last winter’s bodycon, structures, layers and draping, make way for some serious new character! It's strange to think that the 1920s, 1940s and the 1970s could be safer grounds to tread, but who knows... It’s time for the glitzy glam and the sequel to the Morocco-inspired jewel-coloured collection of spring 2011. Lined up for the big dazzle are dandy hats, pinstripe suits, pussybows, fur collars and stunning dresses in leather, suede, fine wool, velvet, knits and silk chiffon. Vintage prints make an appearance here and there, we might note, with dense polka dots, dogtooth, python, and optic stripes - all hardly noticeable though, as the boldest colour clashes of turquoise and violet, coral and lilac, rust and ochre, pass on the catwalk and demand immediate attention. The greyscale section gives us a bit of breathing space, a few minutes’ time to appreciate the cuts and shapes, before transparent skirted chiffon gowns take centre stage with secret garden appliqu├ęs blooming on fronts or shoulders. Just go with the flow and feast your eyes - you won't easily forget.

runway stills: elleuk.com


John Richmond

In a very eclectic collection for next season, the Richmond show goes sports deluxe and 1980s power, then sees the return of the LBD, offers modern leather or fur inserts, and finally, goes all nostalgic for the hourglass-shaped, strict but coquette-ish Mediterranean drama queen. I have my faves, now you pick yours.

runway stills: elleuk.com


Alberta Ferretti

What Alberta has in store for us is a 1970s version of the 1960s. She must have had loads of fun combining the best and most authentic 1960s shapes with some 1970s-inspired boho prints and colours, and flat over-the-knee crushed velvet boots. I want all the shift, tunic and babydoll dresses and slim flares, and can’t stop marveling at the new invention, the maxi shift jumpsuit. Alberta keeps her signature touches with exquisite, floaty dresses and bold embellishment and, with the aforementioned nod to the 1960s trend, she not only does retro but puts her own take on futurism forward. Seriously cult.

runway stills: elleuk.com

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