Erdem has been a no-longer-secret favourite with the fashion pack for the past few seasons – just remember last winter’s lace-up ankle boots bursting with colour you saw all over the place. With a collection expressly built on colour, optimism and oddities, Erdem carries on with the signature print, a mix of smudge and animal print and an impressionist painter’s daubs on a canvas in dazzling colours. Erdem combines touches of baroque (darkness and a golden opulence) with modern (ladylike shapes stripped down to the very core) with ease, creating simple shapes both structured and flowy, body-hugging but sophisticated, cleverly cut and lovingly detailed, to let the woman both make a statement and shine.
The last show of day four had the most gothic setup yet in stow. Held in a former cathedral, the show had everything in place from dead flowers through the gothic metal soundtrack to the styling of the outfits. But then, about half of the collection was all about frills, lace and pleats - in pastels! Now that's gothic with a spin... oh well, there may come a time when we wear pastel lace with gold embellishment to show that rebel streak. We get a few ideas of gothic winter styling too, but the mood doesn't really fit chunky knitwear and heavy layering, too real in a fantasy world. But the true beauties, the flowy dresses with pleated skirts, intricate lace patterns and cobweb mesh are amazing, further toughened up by leather jackets, platform boots and chunky belts. Creepy and painfully beautiful, just as they are meant to be.