Jean-Pierre Braganza

The cool Canadian’s signature constructed tailoring now seems to gravitate towards partial deconstruction, but this season’s focus on structure, science fiction, black and anatomy results in something truly organic. The beautiful structured pieces in wool and leather are strong and dynamic, truly some of the most desirable of their kind. With great contrasts, stripes, matelot and other button details, and some semi-transparent knitwear, Jean-Pierre takes us through very different accents to show his more casual side. Fiery red comes in bold flashes, then in caleidoscopic stripes, before the little black dresses show what embellishment is (and should always be) about – much more striking when used in moderation. The collection is full of wardrobe staples with a dark, wild, sexy edge but also with a softness that comes from organic shapes, great textures, and the way these work with colours and prints. I really wonder how Jean-Pierre does it, and whether it’s legal to make such style statements look so easy and effortless.

runway stills:


For Saloni Lodha, The Earth From The Air holds the key to how it all started. Since then, visions of aerial views, Northern Lights and of many an airborne creature have come alive on her fabrics and inside the Ballroom of the Savile Club in Mayfair, with a unique artistic and musical backdrop (live piano music by Rosie Chan and an installation of flamingos and lush greenery by Kelly McCullam). 

Soft draping, the warmth of red and gold, and earthy neutrals provided the naturally uneven canvas for the central theme: Those Prints. In Saloni’s prints, life comes in all swirling, moving, circling shapes and sizes. It fills the air. Flickering lights are bounced back from waters at sunset, sunbeams filter through clouds and foliage, there is a permanent buzz below and above the rustling leaves, birds and insects cast millions of tiny shadows of their own, and silhouettes blend into the landscape but still remain sharp. Is it flocks and flocks of birds we see, or is it the world in a bird’s eye view? Probably both, as the swirling, moving, circling, flickering, bouncing, filtering, buzzing happens all at once as day and night alternate in fast forward, with very few up there able to take it all in.

Inspired and inspiring. Now, cool girl Saloni also has a blog on Vogue UK Online, with loads of amazing real-life images. And best thing is, she doesn’t stop at shooting a quick funny one at a party or during behind-the-scenes work, I tell you she’s quite the photo reporter! Allow yourself a peek in her life here.

runway stills:

Corrie Nielsen

With a seasonal moodboard heavily loaded with Elizabethan references, styles and artwork, Fashion Fringe 2010 winner Corrie Nielsen (who, by the way, listens to a lot of Depeche Mode I hear), names this host of her latest brainchildren A Winter’s Melody. Melancholic, serious, utterly majestic but not without playfulness, the collection comes across as one of the strongest style statements of the season. Via the more intricate looks, she has shown she is ready to interpret and successfully modernise elements of fashion history no one has dared touch in this century or the 20th, unless to create period costumes. Think farthingales (those enigmatic hooped skirts, y’know), elaborate neckpieces, different ways of voluminous and sleek draping and ruching, billowing shapes, hair updos and great headpieces. Surprisingly, all within the realm of wearable design. Quite intrigued now to make an entrance somewhere in one of her bolder creations...


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