Sophisticated as always, with humour, but the first thing you note is, the futurism and deconstruction in her designs and in all the little details used to be more exuberant, more “OMG, look at that, and that, and that!” This season, her work is sleeker than ever, stripped down to basics with a sprinkle of magic to showcase the power of great cut. The tiniest hints of laser print, gold zips and the beautiful signature metal details (this time, in gold) blend in seamlessly with the more spectacular cutouts, 3D skirt shapes and razor-sharp crops.
‘Back’ home in Sweden, about a month prior to London, Ann-Sofie’s BACK collection triumphed at Stockholm Fashion week, snatching up the Max Factor Award for her thought-provoking approach to design. Have a peek below, and witness the future of relaxed and hyper-cool workwear, plus a lesson in after hours dressing with an air of mystique.
Shapes, more shapes and still more exquisite shapes in a neverending feast to the eyes, by queen of 3D tailoring Charlotte Eskildsen. Whether it’s rich wool, leather or flowy fabric in optic print, the eyes wander away over the looks in a futile attempt to discover all the draping, ruching and asymmetry dreamt into each piece, even the boots. It’s all modern, youthful and easy-looking enough to lift you up and hold you together. It becomes you. Somehow, it folds around your aura to reveal your true self, the sweetest superhero and the purest innocence.
And the award for most playful knitwear goes to... Annalisa Dunn and Dorothee Hagemann! After last season’s op-art, edgy 1970s and drama, autumn/winter is an equally big statement, albeit a very different one. Graphic stripes and blocks, flashes of colour, asymmetry, transparency and midriff-baring, embellishment and accessories made from shoelaces – in short, all the freedom and cheek in the world. And so the party starts to a song of a certain iconic boyband from the girls’ youth. A clue for you there, the collection is named “It’s Alright”. My favourites are the chunky knits, the layered effect pieces – 1990s grunge style, and the fine loose-knit grey-black beauties. Good for Annalisa and Dorothee, for a fun trip down to memory lane, must have been liberating. Must make a mental note to try that sometime.