It must be great to have clashes and contradictions for signature style. Aussie designers Heidi Middleton and Sarah Jane Clarke are totally devoid of self-imposed restrictions, as is worthy of the free spirit and confidence of the strong, the obscure and the beautiful. To me, crayon-coloured Seekerstate is their best collection to date – and the strongest vitamin shot I’ve had in a while.

It shouldn’t come as a surprise, though, as Sass & Bide is always a surprise. But we are so used to being surprised by now that, when we see sequins, clashes, stripes, jammies and metallics all combined, we don’t bat an eyelid.

The same applies to deconstruction: it’s nothing new when it comes to shapes, but while it’s there – and that is where the collection starts to puzzle and dazzle – it’s possibly the least overwhelming feature besides the striking primary colours, neon accessories, and a strange blend of minimalism and intricate detailing.

Next, what catches your eye is the asymmetry of cuts and lengths, which gives the impression of classic layering, only it’s not. And then, you notice that, Seekerstate-side, more than one thing is not what it seems. Just look at the prints. 

At a first glance, you might think you see spot, aztec and animal print, but non, mes amies – still, they are no abstract prints either. Which brings us back to deconstruction. Has anyone deconstructed prints before, in a way that it’s just as confusing as it is recognisable? Now, that’s what I call a masterclass in contradictions.

runway stills:

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