DAVID KOMA: A COURT CASE
























His inspiration was the female tennis player - and, looking at the bold graphic beauties he created for this collection, I can understand why the tennis dress is given a new lease of life at least once every decade. 

I remember a white piqué tennis dress, drop waist, pleats, a tiny logo of rackets, a V-neck and French tri-colour trims on the waist and neck, the whole bit - was one of my favourites as a child, even though I did tend to land in the dirt butt first every time I wore it. 

I must admit I would be ecstatic to wear any of David's tennis-inspired designs, but in a season of sports luxe (and with some of us unsure whether to succumb to the trend) we cannot be grateful enough for clothes that are not only brave but are infinitely flattering, and would look amazing on women of every shape and size. 

Lengths are essentially mini, and the shift and T-shirt dresses, pleated skirts, contrast trims, textured net prints are all clever, playful and glamorous - and I personally love the way it's all tied in with the concept of body armour. It's a real weakness of mine so you can count on me to fall for it anytime, but it's never out of place when it comes to sports, is it?

There is one more thing you notice when looking at this season's net prints. It feels like it's the optical opposite, a 3D reverse if you will, of what David did with that a/w 2011 spot-and-pom-pom collection. There, the spots popped out of the background, whereas here, that background becomes the foreground, taking on a life of its own as the netting, an inescapable part of tennis courts. The sizing of the 'holes' in the net gives the impression of flexibility and movement, which is why I suddenly feel the buzz I seem to always get in the virtual proximity of David's brainchildren.

However, no need to be the smarty-pants and read too much into things, my only point is, while you are the star of the court with your body pampered in his clothes, thanks to David Koma and his bewitching op-art, the eyes of the beholder are being well-trained too. 

I can't really see why David is not one of the most-hyped young British designers, even though he's got it in him. There is just one little difference from the others I can detect from the quite down-to-earth perspective I have on these things. 

He is yet to do a proper high street collaboration. The fact that everyone has done it might be a pro or a con, but still a key factor - the extra attention, the global visibility, and having every girl drooling over his designs has got to count for something. Just thinking about getting my hands on one of his dresses makes my heart beat faster. Please, David, won't you consider it? For us...?



runway stills: vogue.co.uk

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