This is where the mythical, biblical, historic and fairytale landscapes, as created by filmmakers and musical score composers of our time, spring into mind as the collection unfolds.

Entitled 'Cha-O-Ha', Lakota for 'in the wilderness', Marios' back-to-basics and back-to-nature approach gave us looks equally fit for the royal courts of the Antiquity and the Indian tribes before Columbus across the vast plains and forests of the American continent. It's all there, Gladiator, Pocahontas, 1492, Anthony and Cleopatra, The Last Temptation of Christ, Ben Hur, Rome, Spartacus, and even the Flintstones. 

In keeping with the concept, all the signature sexy and sophisticated dresses halfway transformed into little tribal scraps of fabric with roughly curving edges and lace-up details, generously embellished with fringes and elevated to cosmopolitan eveningwear by transparent layers. 

Leather is there, thank goodness, and in some delicious colours too. Fringes are reinvented as peplums, collars and flaps, and lace integrates into tops and dresses as front panels of prints and motifs.

This collection definitely takes the house cup for most spectacular footwear this season. We never saw anything this literal a reference anywhere else - it's complementary as it is distracting. 

You can't help but wonder how the extravagantly fringed sandals would look with different clothes, how you would see the clothes paired with city girl style shoes, or if that should equal sacrilege in your books, would you dare a total look, and if so, would you like it once removed from the magic of the show when it's only you against the world or the mirrors...

Let's keep it real, that's roughly how the mind of a fash-monger works. In this case, a tiny voice in the back of my head screams its confusion, while the rest is absolutely in awe. The cuts, pintucks, transparencies, pleating, rouching and panelling are exquisite, and somewhat surprising. 

Whether these particular fabrics lend themselves or not to the specific techniques Marios uses on them, he emerges as the victor who wills his pieces into perfection. There's something divine about that, there is no denying.

runway stills:

More on Marios Schwab:
London Fashion Week a/w 2011 - Day Five

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