FLASHES OF NEW YORK: DAY ONE

A quick glance at as many of the collections of the big fashion weeks is always an educational experience, whether you do full reviews or not. This is how you meet the work of tomorrow's stars, and make sure none of your old favourites slips through the nets while you're scrambling to organise yourself during fashion season, with too much to do. Day One of New York Fashion Week is about the new & quirky stuff - take one minute to see for yourself.

Norma Kamali

Quilting, rock & roll, tulle or lace, slinky dresses, duvets and some traditional masculine tailoring. Not exactly coherent as a collection if you ask me but it does have what it takes to attract.

Red Valentino

Intricate kindergarten vintage chic - reminds me of Eastern fairytales, deep woods, tiny stackhouses, the only thing missing is an evil witch or the big bad wolf. Does pack quite a punch.

Lisa Perry

Simple and graphic like the 60s artsy sex kitten. The collection is quirky all right, but relaxed, smart and chic enough for work or play, day or night.

Creatures Of Comfort

True, it all looks uber-comfy, just a little too much so. And a tiny bit too crazy-minimal for my taste. Still, no matter how simple the outfits may look, there is much more going on in the background, in the fabrics and the styling. The verdict: it takes some getting used to, but talent will find a way. 

Skaist Taylor

A new-ish take on dressy baroque military tough, and a dash of 70s glamour. Fierce, confident and full of joie d'vivre. Like.

M. Patmos

Expect the unexpected: bewildering combos, shocking styling, perplexing layers. Try and imagine yourself wearing these outfits to the office. Girl or nanny? Fresh breeze or a bucket of iced water? Still, whatever it is, it works.

Tia Cibani

Has an air of serious luxury, for ladies full of drama and attitude. Don't even think about where to wear all this, that's all in your head. Just let yourself be blown away.

Juicy Couture

Professionally pulled-together high street style looks, selected from the past few seasons, with the signature sleekness and the ghetto-fab factor. And some great shoes. May also work as an easy Sunday night reminder of what to wear the coming week.

Veronica Beard

Creamy softness with lots of quirky styling. The looks are kind of great but feel slightly sticky-sweet and bulky - probably not quite right for all.

J Brand

Its jeans are already iconic. The collection is a cross between grown-up cool and plain scary. So was ACNE if you remember. Has real potential if you ask me.

Rachel Comey

So edgy it bites. While I love certain pieces and ways of styling, I find it difficult to appreciate collections that are so deliberately unflattering. Oh well. I'm not saying it's not cool - you just have have a certain physical build, and be beyond insecurity or vanity to work it.

runway stills: vogue.co.uk, elle.com