Let's continue our flip-through of the autumn/winter 2013 shows of New York Fashion Week!
Cushnie et Ochs
I must confess this is one of my big favourites from New York for next season. Dreamlike whites, sharp greys, beautiful blacks and midnight skies are coming at you from Cushnie et Ochs - such a pro at structure, fluidity and radiance. Want. Them. All.
Playful colour block detailed bikers and duffle coats, blue camo print coat, leather sleeve jumper, motif dresses, dogtooth tweeds, leather dress, a bit of neon, a bit of galaxy print, structured sleeves - the seasoning is all current, not overly fashion forward but some of the looks do feel original.
Rag & Bone
Dogtooth print, metallic trims, metallic bouclé, industrial detailing, quilted leather, shearling jackets, oversized jumpers, checks, satin finish - besides black, there's an amazing shade of aqua or steel blue, and chilli, purple and blue colour blocking that reminds you of sporty stripes in spite of the smart directional cuts..
Lovely lovely things here. Minimal structures, military, vintage feel dresses, the kind of style Zara will love to work with - instant smartness and glamour in navy, black, monochrome, bits of leopard print, and gowns in magenta and royal blue. No need to go next door for the weird factor, either. The full lace bold coloured trouser suit, the sequin pants, the fox tails hanging from your belt, the huge contrast fur cuffs, and the overdone femme fatale beauty are just priceless, and sure to make you smile.
I guess I know what grungy smart is like. The crinkled jersey pieces, organza sleeves, tough belts, hats, check print details, casually thrown-on blazers and other layers, in a mostly monochrome palette. Then, in come the faded, busy check-on-kaleido-on-geometric, the baroque leaf print, and the floral print, invading all sorts of garments - skirts, dresses, parkas, jumpers, shirts, and trousers. Leather, wool, tweed, sequins and fur work together as well as they should, complemented by some of my favourite items, the two-tone triple-strap ankle boots. The more you look at this collection, the more details you discover, and can't help but love it.
Innovative fabric and colour blocks make up structured coats, jackets, dresses at Helmut Lang, with large geometric prints getting busier with each look. There is a distinct space suit slash armour quality to many of the outfits - the more obvious the better, and something I could never resist. The soft, slim, tailored pieces complement that essential sleek quirkiness nicely, but I tend to prefer the structure and the leather detailing that's there in abundance. Really love the white stuff, and the now-usual black-and-white, black-and-navy combos.
Fully wearable as always, looks a tiny bit more pared-back than usual from a distance, but in turn, the tiny twists are bolder, punchier, edgier than ever. On check tweed combos in muted colours you have geometric panelled print and fabric clashes. A leather-tee-plus-tweed-miniskirt look brims with sweeping seams, creating extra structure. Sexy, smart and smartly quirky pieces use similar lace or mesh techniques to achieve very different effects. And, there are a few livelier prints like floral, striped tapestry, and kaleidoscopic (méhsejtszeru), wool pieces with bold flashes of colour on the lapels or on sporty stripes or arrows. And of course, piles and piles of leather.
Granny's prints and the fresh linens in her country house come alive at Suno. While the former comprise checker prints, folk-style print blocks and gold jacquard, quite appropriate for winter, the latter are quite surprising - you can almost smell spring in the white-blue crisp shirts, tunics and dresses. Well, maybe it's no coincidence, just an antidote to winter blues. Use it wisely.
The early and the late 1980s come to meet and greet you with full midi skirts, blouses and classic courts, motif jumpers, huge rose print, long dresses and ankle length coats, topped off with a dash of timelessness thanks to decent velvet suits and large check tweeds. The only truly different notes you can catch is the jacquard print and the wide tailored trouser and leather gilet combo, to provide a quick stand-in for the present time...