Uh-oh. What do we have here? Where has the soft, delicate, perfectly groomed lady of the previous seasons gone? 

There are designers you hate to see change. With others, you expect it with every single collection - no big deal. Well, Jasper Conran is your designer of the third kind. His work is absolutely beautiful, but the minute you take it for granted, you subconsciously wish for a change. Beyond a certain point, no extra perfection makes for greater satisfaction on either side, so the way to go is change. That's easier said than done, and easier done than done well. I have just seen a strategic faux pas this fashion week and prefer not to think about what an epic turnoff it is.

But I'm happy to announce, I'm simply proud of Jasper for having made the move, and happy with the direction he took, not to mention the result.

And so it is that the lady turns into a cool girl. Rebel, biker, high school sweetheart, a cowgirl, even. It's Southern-sweet-sixteen-at-her-garden-party meets roadhouse pin-up: cool, relaxed, colourful and almost sugary, but the joie de vivre and Jasper's sophistication and perfectionist approach carries it right through the risky terrain. 

And what you get is freshness and fruity colours, amazing little dresses and shorts, classic denim styles, broderie anglaise, crochet, appliqué motifs, floral and geometric prints, sequins, mini patchwork quilting, and a quick foray into smart tailoring - strictly come barefoot.

runway stills: vogue.co.uk

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